Guilhem & J-Hugues Goisot Bourgogne Aligoté 2017
Goisot's old vine Aligoté is drawn from parcels of 40 and 92 year old vines, planted on the high, cool slopes of an old Chardonnay terroir known as barrémien. This soil is made up of ancient, dense clay, littered with blue-grey fossilised oyster shells, several inches long. This was fermented with its native yeasts and raised entirely in tank. Aligoté is notorious for requiring old vines and the right soils to produce wines of quality. This cuvee ticks both boxes and boy does it show. It has more texture and ripeness than you would normally associate with the variety with preserved lemon rind and even some crunchy stone fruit notes but the overall impression is of a driven, zesty, pulpy, saline wine of enormous energy and chalky drive. A long, electric close. In other words, top drawer Chablis in disguise. Bargain.
Robert Parker/Wine Advocate – The Bourgogne Aligote, which I tasted just after bottling last year, has a refined bouquet that is subtle at first, with honeysuckle and wild mint notes that appear to blossom with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a slightly fishy entry, fresh and vibrant. Harmonious and not a blowsy Aligoté, the terroir comes through on the finish with limestone and chalky notes that lend a slight but pleasant austerity. As I said before, I suspect this will repay those that give this 2-3 years in bottle. 89 points, Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate #226
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