The Wine Front – Biodynamic farmed from a single vineyard on the Paxton estate. Grows up in French and American oak barrels. Paxton have been a leading light in showing biodynamic (certified) viticulture can be done to scale, well. Inky, deep, throaty red of hearty, dark fruit character, all inky cassis and choc-berry, liquid spice, fat tannins. A juicy, fleshy, plush flow of espresso tinged plummy fruit, gritty, savouriness to close. This is a big, bold red of warming character and density. Touch of warmth in the mix. It’s done pretty well for its style.

James Halliday – Biodynamic-grown fruit, open-fermented, matured in French and American barriques for 18 months. A celebrated McLaren Vale single vineyard wine, effortlessly providing a deep well of black fruits and fine-grained tannins, the oak a positive contributor, not a rabble rouser.

World Wine – Chocolate, dried plum and anise notes are juicy and bursting with blackberry accents. Balanced and smooth, especially on the finish. Drink now through 2026.

Wine Spectator – Features linzer torte, boysenberry and blueberry coulis flavors allied to ample, silky and seamless structure and backed by a gorgeous perfumy finish of black tea and incense. Offers a beguiling, Pinot Noir-like profile, with lovely length and mouthfeel. Best from 2015 through 2030.

Robert Parker/Wine Advocate – Starting with the 2011 Châteauneuf du Pape Le Secret du Sabon, it shows the sunny character of the vintage with its perfumed kirsch and red fruits, herbes de Provence, licorice and ground spices. A big wine, it possesses full-bodied richness, fine tannin and a seamless, elegant style that will allow it to evolve gracefully for 15 years or more.