Albino Rocca Barbaresco 2014
In addition to its classic source, a parcel of old vines in Meruzzano, Rocca's Barbaresco now takes in declassified fruit from four Barbaresco cru parcels: Ovello, Ronchi, Montersino and Cottà (from a parcel of vines in the sandy soils of Neive that are bottled as a cru from 2015). In any given year, it's an impressive roll call for a village bottling. Since 2010, the Rocca's decision to mature their estate Barbaresco exclusively in large, 20 hectolitre, Stockinger botti has paid obvious dividends, as has the choice to take the wines out of wood after 20 months (previously 24). Now we see much more clarity to the silky core of sweet fruit that forms the heart of this striking Barbaresco.
Rocca's 2014 Barbarescos are world class. Barbaresco escaped the rain and hail that swept through Barolo in this harvest and ended up harvesting perfectly ripe fruit in beautiful harvest conditions. The resultant wines are a tad fresher and more forward than their 2013 counterparts, making this release an ideal restaurant vintage. Think a mix of lifted, cherry-floral fragrance and a bustling, supple palate with classic, zesty red fruit and bags of sinewy tannin adding length and structure.
Antonio Galloni/Vinous – The 2014 Barbaresco is a very pretty wine that can be enjoyed with minimal cellaring if given some air. Sweet tobacco, mint, licorice and dark cherry all lift from the glass. Aromatic and lifted in style, the 2013 also has plenty of tannic grip and enough structure to support at least a few years in the cellar, although this is an early drinking style. This deceptively understated Barbaresco is very pretty. The Barbaresco is made from vines in Meruzzano, along with young-vine fruit in Ronchi, Ovello and Cottà, and aged for two years in 20HL casks.
In a mixed or straight case: $74.09