Domaine Bernard Defaix Bougros Grand Cru Chablis 2012
Located in the northwest corner of the slope, Bougros has a notable southeasterly exposure and the steepest gradient of all the grand cru vineyards. I like Jasper Morris' evocative description of the Bougros style; "like being smothered in a great big woolly jumper-big fat, soft and round." (Inside Burgundy, 2010). This seems about right. He then goes on to describe the wines from the top of the vineyard - from where this wine hails - as displaying the 'classical minerality' of Chablis. Spot on again if you ask me. While the domaine do not own any grand cru parcels, this wine comes from a long-term lease arrangement whereby Didier and Sylvain Defaix manage the viticulture and the harvest. This is a powerhouse Grand Cru with a great depth of crystalline fruit and, thanks in part to this parcel's elevation, an exhilarating mineral tension. It's an imposing, pillowy and spicy grand cru of considerable class, representing the youthful power of the best wines from this outstanding vintage.
|Brand||Domaine Bernard Defaix|
Allen Meadows – A pleasingly fresh and markedly floral nose offers up notes of green fruit, algae, pear and soft wood hints. The overtly muscular but suave big-bodied flavors possess real volume before terminating in a mouth coating and once again distinctly saline and almost painfully intense finish. As is typically the case this is not especially refined but there is excellent depth and length. In a word, impressive. 93 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 56
In a mixed or straight case: $132.04