Guilhem & J-Hugues Goisot Bourgogne Cotes d'Auxerre Gueules de Loup Blanc 2015
Chardonnay, single-vineyard. Gueules de Loup is perhaps this region's most picturesque vineyard and is named after the beautiful flowers (snapdragons) that flourish in its soils. This one-hectare site faces south/southeast and the soils are almost pure limestone, which lends this cuvée its cooler, crunchier, mineral personality. The Goisots believe it is a terroir quite similar to the Vaillons 1er cru in Chablis but there is more "white Burgundy" personality here than we have ever seen from Vaillons. The vines are over 40 years old and the fruit undergoes a long, slow pressing. The fermentation occurs at around 25 degrees and the malo is in barrel, on lees. Maturation is all in barrels, on lees. This was super tight and closed when we tasted it last year at the Domaine - the palate was linear, crunchy and cool with white floral and quinine notes on the long, savoury finish. In addition to the note below, Allen Meadows adds that it is '... flat out terrific for a Bourgogne."
Robert Parker/Wine Advocate – "The Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre Gueules de Loup has a more resinous, almost Rhône-like bouquet compared to the Biaumonts. Tree sap, melted candle wax and a touch of diesel are all here, a decidedly intoxicating bouquet. The palate is fresh and vibrant with crisp acidity, hints of lemon and orange rinds. It is more austere than other Goisots, but there is a superb lemongrass and stem ginger finish that keeps this on its toes." 91 points, Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com #226
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