Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2022

Frankly, Marcoux’s white is one of Châteauneuf’s best. La Revue du Vin de France agrees with us, writing: “[The domaine’s white wines] regularly establish themselves among the most beautiful of the appellation; cultivation has a lot to do with it.” The first thing to say is that it’s atypically Roussanne-dominant (up to 70%), blended with Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc and Clairette. Most of the Roussanne and Bourboulenc hails from two parcels: Les Esqueirons, where the cool, limestone-based soils are perfect for white grapes; and Les Bosquets, where the Bourboulenc brings citric freshness and drive to the layered Roussanne. The rest of the grapes come from parcels of Grenache Blanc and Clairette, which are co-planted in predominantly red sites. Marcoux currently farms only one hectare of white grapes, although another fifth of a hectare of Clairette will come on stream soon.

In the cellar, the grapes are pressed as whole bunches and ferment naturally in mostly steel tanks. An ever-increasing portion of the wine is now raised in low-impact Stockinger cask, and Sophie Armenier’s son Vincent Estevenin has also introduced some sandstone amphora into the mix. As always, there is no bâtonnage or malolactic conversion and even in warmer-than-average years, the wine always retains an outstanding balance between volume and freshness. Very aromatic this year (think spring meadows and citrus fruits), it offers a fabulous balance of textural fruits countered by chalky structure, stony depth and terrific zesty length. Great class and crazy delicious. It should live magnificently, developing more complexity, but it's just a wonderfully delicious drink now.