Denis Clair Cotes de Beaune Villages 2013

The fruit for this bottling comes from several parcels, which include plenty of old vines, situated on the chalky slopes above Santenay, Saint-Aubin and in Maranges. Old vines, low yields, destemming and cold soaking are some of the keys to Jean-Baptiste's (Francoise's and Denis son) exuberant style, which offers a lot more stuffing than you might expect of this appellation. The 2013 is a juicy, chewy, spicy Côte de Beaune with a core of red cherry, Pinot fruit, and complexing notes of nettle, iodine, and brown spices. It's racy and persistent on the palate with some serious, steely structure that begs for food. Impressive length, leaving the palate bright and vibrating with lingering ferrous and spice notes. Really benefits from a good decanting too. Raised in old 228-litre Burgundian pièce, there's a little bit of the old school here (the firm structure) combined with the new (purity, freshness, etc.). Perhaps a little of the father and a little of the son. Regardless, it's a Burgundy that punches well above its weight from an admired Santenay grower.