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Robert Parker/Wine Advocate – Lucas Pichler's monumental Grüner Veltliner Smaragd M opens with an ultra-ripe, concentrated and slightly speck-y yet still precise and even mineral-scented bouquet on the nose. Very rich and intense on the palate, this elegant, full-bodied, densely textured and powerful Veltliner from late-harvested grapes reveals an aromatic and juicy fruit core along with a stunningly vibrant acidity that gives structure, length and a lifting as well as lingering salinity and piquancy. Maracuya and other tropical fruit flavors dominate the aromatic aftertaste. Although I have no experience with matured samples of this Austrian icon Veltliner, I suspect it has an aging potential of 5-10 years and should be cellared at least for another 2 or 3 years.
About This Wine
M stands for "monumental" and serves to signify our Grüner Veltliner Smaragd of exceptional complexity and concentration. The first grüner to be awarded this honour, because it presented itself like a landmark, or simply a monument, was one of the 1991 vintage. The grapes for "M" are usually harvested two to three weeks after the fruit for the vineyard-designated wines. Depending on the vintage and growing season, the major portion of "M" is usually sourced from Loibnerberg terraces and a selection of the best fruit from several premium sites.
About Austrian Wine
Austria is a country with over 4000 years of wine making history, however, it unfortunately doesn't seem to enjoy the status and popularity that the high quality of it's wines deserve. Decades later, the country is still feeling the effects of a scandal in 1985 that destroyed its credibility at the time.
Grüner Veltliner is the most important wine made in Austria, distinguished by its lightly fruity, noticeable spice and characteristic white pepper notes. This variety comprises roughly a third of all plantings. In terms of volume, Riesling plays a much smaller role than in Germany, but is responsible for some of the most appreciated dry white wines made in the country.
In red varietals, Austrian native varieties are dominant and include the tart and peppery Zweigelt, spicy and dense Blaufränkisch and juicy Saint Laurent.