Cavallotto Langhe Nebbiolo 2023

The word benchmark gets bandied around a lot, but this is a Nebbiolo that justifies that term from an already hyped vintage. This year’s wine is drawn exclusively from declassified, mostly young-vine fruit from the great Castiglione Falletto Cru of Bricco Boschis. Cropped at yields below 40 hl/ha, the grapes are entirely destemmed, and fermentation is spontaneous. Malolactic conversion was in cement tanks during the spring following harvest. The wine was aged for 18 months in Slavonian oak botti and bottled unfiltered.

This perfectly portrays the balanced character of this vintage and is an outstanding mini-Barolo. It offers wonderfully red-fruited perfume and layer upon layer of gorgeous, elegantly rendered Nebbiolo fruit. There is structure, as you would expect of a serious Nebbiolo, but the tannins are fine and work to balance the wine's compact fruit. It closes with lovely energy, purity and mouthwatering salinity. It’s an outstanding, engaging Nebbiolo that offers excellent value for money. As with all this grower’s wines, the longer it spends in the decanter or glass, the more it reveals. A don’t-miss Nebbiolo.