Byrne Farm Pinot Noir 2023

Certified organic. The Pinot Noir is sourced from the Springvale block, southwest of Orange just outside the town of Cargo. This is believed to have been the first certified organic vineyard in NSW and, as per the Chardonnay, the vines are some of the oldest in the region at roughly 30 years. The vineyard is comprised of Abel and 115 clones, all on their own roots at an altitude of 820m.

Byrne has worked with fruit from this site for a dozen years, mostly with the Abel clone, which he prizes for its Christmas spice perfume. The fruit was hand-picked, 100% destemmed and sent to three-tonne open fermenters where it cold-soaked for four days, followed by a 10-day ferment on skins. The wine was then lightly pressed and sent to 500-litre oak barrels where it matured for 10 months (30% new) before being blended.

This year’s cooler conditions have resulted in a Pinot of impressive purity, minerality and drive, redolent with beautiful red fruit power and intensity, lovely smoked meat and earth savouriness and just a touch of reduction. There was no whole bunch this year, but plenty of whole berry to chase down that pretty and airy style, and Jeff delayed sulphuring to prolong malo, to add texture to the mid-palate. The palate is densely packed, with purity and finely drawn, fleshy structure interlaced with high-grown freshness and a savoury tinged, lengthy close. Proper.