Domaine Theulot-Juillot Mercurey Château Mipont 2022

Nathalie Theulot believes this fine lieu-dit, nestled in the heart of the village, to be worthy of 1er Cru status. The site faces south and is naturally protected from the prevailing winds. It’s a vineyard that always delivers impressive density and ample flavour to go with juicy structure. Unlike much of Mercurey, these are mass-selection vines. They were planted in 1963 by Theulot’s grandfather, making them some of the oldest in the village. The grapes are fully destemmed before a five-day ‘cold soak’, and the wine is fermented wild in a vat before aging for 12 months in 20% new oak barrels.

Quite Rully-like in elegant frame, it fans out with a glade of sweet bramble fruit, earth and spice, while elegant, powdery tannins and bright freshness weave through the deep-pile texture. When you factor in the price and remember that many in the Côte d’Or charge similar, or even higher, prices for Bourgogne-level wines, it delivers value with bells on. With its engaging combination of depth and brightness, it has the construction to partner with a wide range of dishes, including rich duck and grilled meats.