Champagne Laherte Frères Ultradition NV (Base 18. Disg. July 2022) (375ml)

Dubbed “just impeccable, especially within its peer group,” by Galloni, Ultradition is made from fruit that is both biodynamic and organically reared. There are now two reserve vintages blended in, making up 40% of the blend, and 60% is comprised of barrel-aged material. The varietal blend remains 60% Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, with the fruit drawn from seven different parcels across the Côteaux Sud d'Épernay and Vallée de la Marne (namely Chavot, Mancy, Morangis, Le Breuil, Boursault, Moussy and Vaudancourt). The average age of the vines is 30 years.
Aurélien Laherte naturally ferments the juice in a mixture of vessels, including two 50-hL Rousseau tronconique casks, old barrels, foudre and concrete. Regardless of vessel, the wines are always on lees and malolactic fermentation is partially completed (around 60-70% on average). This bottling, based on the 2018 vintage with 40% reserve wines from 2017 and 2016, was disgorged with a dosage of 4.5 g/L (extra-brut).
This is a top-value grower wine – bright, pure and juicy with loads of delicious redcurrant, floral and apple-skin Meunier fruit. A hint of spice adds complexity, and the finish is bright as a button, driven by zesty, mineral length. This bottling now has a beautiful new label (by artist Hanna Albrektson), bringing it into line with the Rosé de Meunier and Blanc des Blancs designs. It now looks as good as it tastes! The quality delivered for this price is outstanding.