Joh Jos Prüm Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2023

The sundial that gives this vineyard its name and is firmly established on the labels of Prüm wines was, like its even more famous counterpart in the Wehlen vineyard, donated by Jodocus Prüm in 1842. His idea at the time, however, was not to create a world-renowned vineyard designation. Jodocus Prüm was involved in numerous social projects, and in donating the sundials, his practical aim was to make it easier for the local winegrowers to orient themselves to time. The theme of time plays a central role in the wines from Joh. Jos. Prüm. For one thing, the winery is not impressed by trends and fads – for decades they have cultivated their own style and refined it with focused dedication, without being influenced by the prevailing zeitgeist. The main focus is on the care of their approximately 22 hectares of vineyards, ensuring an optimal environment for the grapes to ripen and allowing the vines to age healthily. Furthermore, the wines possess almost endless aging potential, continuing to develop and improve over decades, especially the Auslese wines. They achieve the remarkable feat of developing ever greater depth and finesse without losing their freshness. The wines from the Zeltinger vineyard are no exception – you could confidently buy a bottle now for your unborn grandchild to give them on their thirtieth birthday.

The 2023 vintage is another highlight in the history of great wines from this vineyard – the only tragedy being the limited quantity. As is customary, the grapes are harvested by hand, and fermentation is spontaneous in stainless steel tanks with extended aging on the fine lees. The result is a true marvel of finesse and elegance. On the nose, it takes a little while for the opulent, exotic aromas to fully emerge. It begins almost shyly with yellow stone fruit, white peach, white blossoms, and delicate honey. With aeration and time, lychee, mango, and pineapple follow. The cool minerality of wet slate is quite pronounced, a harbinger of the wine's magnificent freshness from the very first sniff.

On the palate, the finely composed fruit basket gains distinctive citrus notes of orange peel and pink grapefruit. The balance is impressive, from the initial contact on the tip of the tongue to the end of the long finish, where aromas of meadow herbs and Earl Grey tea still linger. Once again, in this complex masterpiece from Prüm, the interplay of sweetness, acidity, and minerality is in a class of its own. Powerful and with incredibly precise aromas, and above all, and most importantly: simply wonderfully drinkable!

This selection from Zeltingen pairs superbly with fruity and spicy Thai curries, sushi, classic desserts, and cheeses, but is also excellent on its own as a final sip after a meal or as an accompaniment to a cigar. The wine's greatest challenge: getting your hands on a bottle before it's gone!