Jonathan Didier Pabiot Pouilly Fumé Léon 2023

The former Florilège with a new name, Léon is Jonathan Didier Pabiot’s calling card, an assemblage of fruit from mature vines rooted in the estate’s three key soil types: caillottes, terres blanches and silex. The lieux-dits are Les Champs de Cris, Les Asserts, Villiers and Les Champs Piot. All are densely planted at 10,000 vines per hectare. To make a wine of this depth and character, Pabiot crops his vines at 30 hl/ha.

The winemaking here takes on more intricacy. 80% of the crop was fermented and raised in concrete cuve and stainless steel and 20% barrel-fermented juice was blended in for complexity. This cuvée spent at least 12 to 18 months on lees to build texture and retain brightness, which is also achieved though it’s refreshing 13% alcohol.

You’ve already forgotten you’re drinking Sauvignon Blanc by the time the first sip goes down. It’s a fleshy and stony northern white, rippling with salty lemon and fennel oil notes. A pillowy texture is animated by bracing tension and citrus-like freshness that teases out the long finish.