Cellier Saint Benoit Arbois Pupillin La Marcette Chardonnay 2023

Benjamin farms half a hectare in La Marcette, which sits at 335 metres in the south of Pupillin as you move towards Poligny. The soil here is Triassic marl (chalky clay), and the 65–70-year-old vines (planted by Benjamin’s grandfather) sit on the plateau of a hill, right above Les Charots and opposite the village. Despite the proximity, the wines could hardly be less alike; the sunny Marcette parcels ripen considerably earlier and deliver aromatic golden berries compared to the typically more focused, chiselled Les Charots. To emphasise the different terroirs of each parcel, the winemaking for all the Chardonnays remains very similar. All the grapes are pressed as whole bunches into used 600-litre barrels for fermentation and 12 months of lees-aging. Benjamin then decants off the gross lees, and the wine rests on clean lees in stainless steel for a further six months, allowing him to bottle the wines without filtration.

This is incredibly deep and powerful, with preserved citrus, orchard fruit, quince, camomile and salty notes. The rich, fleshy palate is framed by excellent length and a driven finish. In Benjamin’s words, it’s a gastronomic wine. Pair it with rich poultry and pork dishes or a thickly sliced tranche of well-aged Comté.