About This Wine
Goisot's old vine Aligoté is drawn from parcels of 40 and 92 year old vines, planted on the high, cool slopes of an old Chardonnay terroir known as barrémien. This soil is made up of ancient, dense clay, littered with blue-grey fossilised oyster shells, several inches long. This was fermented with its native yeasts and raised entirely in tank. Aligoté is notorious for requiring old vines and the right soils to produce wines of quality. This cuvee ticks both boxes and boy does it show. It has more texture and ripeness than you would normally associate with the variety with preserved lemon rind and even some crunchy stone fruit notes but the overall impression is of a driven, zesty, pulpy, saline wine of enormous energy and chalky drive. A long, electric close. In other words, top drawer Chablis in disguise. Bargain.
Wines from Burgundy
A legendary wine region setting the benchmark for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay worldwide. In the Jurassic time period, the area was part of a vast, tropical sea. Over hundreds of millions of years, the seabed transformed into various layers of limestone, sandstone and clay soils that have entrapped the fossils of ancient sea creatures. These soils are the secret behind the zesty minerality that Burgundy wines are famous for.
Burgundy is probably the most terroir-centric wine region in France. Huge emphasis is placed on the specific vineyard, soil type, elevation, and angle of slope where the wines were made. This is reflected on the wine's labels where appellations are more prominently displayed compared to the producers’ names.
The most prestigious wines of the region come from a long and narrow escarpment called the Côte d'Or split into the Côte de Nuits to the north and the Côte de Beaune to the south. Côte de Nuits produces many of the world’s finest Pinot Noir’s, all but one of Burgundy’s red Grand Crus are made in this area. Whilst interestingly, the opposite is true for the Côte de Beaune where all but one of the Chardonnay Grand Crus are made. From this information it may seem you should be buying a Pinot from the North and Chardonnay from the south, that is only true for the pinnacle of Burgundian wines. Both outstanding reds and whites are produced throughout the Côte d'Or.
In Burgundy, they use a wine quality tier system that goes:
Grand Crus 1.4% of total production
Premier (1er) Crus 10.2% of total production
Appellations Villages 37.3% of total production
Appellations Regionales 51.1% of total production
When one refers to “Burgundy wines” they are usually talking about those produced in and around the Côte d'Or. While the Chardonnay’s from Chablis and the Gamay’s from Beaujolais are formally apart of the Burgundy wine region, those subregions are generally referred to by their own names rather than being considered “Burgundy wines”.
World Wine – "No one but no one delivers more quality for the price than Goisot." Allen Meadows (Burghound)
Robert Parker/Wine Advocate – This has a refined bouquet that is subtle at first, with honeysuckle and wild mint notes that appear to blossom with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a slightly fishy entry, fresh and vibrant. Harmonious and not a blowsy Aligoté, the terroir comes through on the finish with limestone and chalky notes that lend a slight but pleasant austerity. As I said before, I suspect this will repay those that give this 2-3 years in bottle.
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