Guilhem & J-Hugues Goisot Saint-Bris Exogyra Virgula Blanc 2017

Sauvignon Blanc. St-Bris is Burgundy's only AOC for Sauvignon Blanc (and the very rare Sauvignon Gris). Exogyra Virgula is the name of the comma-shaped, fossilised oyster that is so abundant in the soils in this part of the world. This wine, which has justifiably developed something of a cult following, hails from the Kimmeridgian soils of the Cornevin, Côte de la Canne and La Roncie vineyards: all north-facing slopes (170-200m.a.s.l) carpeted with exogyra virgula fossils. From a warm vintage, it's even less varietal than usual (which as we know is a good thing). In fact, forget about the variety. When massale selection, old vine Sauvignon is grown well on pure limestone soils, the result has nothing to do with the variety. Think the very finest Sancerre and you will be getting close to the quality, personality and sheer deliciousness on offer here. Lifted, ripe and succulent aromatics lead to silky, beautifully balanced palace with layers of textural stone fruit, golden delicious and honey blossom leads to a chalky, powdery close. Incredibly delicious now, it will certainly age well and will be fascinating to revisit in 2 or 3 years.